Blood Bowl Custom End Zones by Lexington

A long time ago I met a wonderful man.  He’s not important; what’s important is I met Lexington a little less than 15 years ago.  He’s been my constant companion through model wargaming, and occasional rival.  Friendval?  (Editors note: think of something more clever later)  Regardless, Lexington just gave me my Xmas present and if you think that it’s four months early, you’d be wrong.  Marvel in their awesomeness:

BLOOD BOWL CUSTOM END ZONES!  These end zones are designed for the 2nd edition Astrogranite board.  I designed the basic concepts for the logos for the Konquata Monitors and the Grimfang Scrappaz, but Lexington brought them to life, and formatted them for the correct size of the end zone. (Blood Bowl fans take note: these end zones are two squares deep, unlike the ones on a modern Blood Bowl board)

These custom end zones were then printed in full color on a laser printer and laminated with 10 mil laminate.  They were then cut to size.  This breaks the seal and eventually they will need to be replaced, but it looks better without a margin.  Incidentally, you can find the files here:

Konquata Monitors Custom End Zone by Lexington

Grimfang Scrappaz Custom End Zone by Lexington

Of course, these are useless to anyone but me.  However, if you want to make your own, use these as templates.  The final size of the Astrogranite 2nd edition end zone is 14.5″ wide by 1.75″ deep.  These files are larger than that in order to give you bleed to cut off.  Print them, laminate them, and trim carefully to size.  Make your own!

Next: Grimfang Scrappaz support staff!

Blood Bowl Coach – Warboss Grimfang da Lotz

Warboss Grimfang da Lotz slouched in his scrap iron throne, in the bowels of Mount Grimfang’s deepest cavern.  Bio-luminescent fungus barely gave off enough light to outline the silhouette of Nugget, Grimfang’s lucky snotling.  None of the other ladz were around, so Grimfang didn’t feel the need to hold in his disappointment.

“Nugget, wot we gonna do today?” he sighed.  Nugget, hearing his name, perked up.

“Dat’s right, we’s gonna fight Stunties.  Jus’ like yeserday an’ da day before an’ da day before dat.”  Grimfang sighed.  “Ceptin’ da Stunties barely ever fight anymore.  We ain’t seen a proppa battle fer a long time.”

Nugget pounced on an errant squig, ignoring Grimfang.

“Ever since dat Stunty tol’ us dat dere’s no more war cuz of dat new fing, wot wuz it again, Nugget?”

“Ang ang ang ang ang.” Nugget replied as he chewed the squig.

“Yer, Blood Bowl, dat’s wot it was.  Somefing about runnin’ up an’ down a field, muckin’ about.  Don’t sound like a proppa WAAAAGH, do it?”

Nugget toddled over and offered Grimfang the remains of the squig.  Grimfang rubbed Nugget’s head because it was lucky, everyone knew that.

“On da uvver ‘and, it sounds like the only way to get a proppa scrap anymore.” Grimfangs voice rose, with renewed optimism.  “Yer, plus since everybody’s playin’, ya get to fight lots of fings, not just Stunties.  You’s right, Nugget!  Dat sounds like da best idea!”

Nugget collapsed under the noogie barrage he was receiving.

“GURSHAK!” Grimfang bellowed.  “GET YER WURFLESS ‘IDE IN ‘ERE!”  Moments later, Gurshak Ripgrot, one of Grimfang’s biggest Nobs arrived.

“Yer… wot is it, boss?” Gurshak stammered, making sure not to make direct eye contact.

“Get all da ladz workin!  Ain’t no time fer a nap!  Get all da loot, an’ all da stuff wot da Stunties lef’ fer minin’ silver.”

Gurshak smiled. “We gettin’ ready fer a fight?”

“BETTER!” Grimfang yelled.  “WE GETTIN’ READY FER A SCRAP!”

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Warboss Grimfang da Lotz is the latest Warboss in a long line of Orcs to hold the title.  The original Warboss Grimfang conquered the Mount Silverspire silver mine from Dwarfs, long ago.  The Orcs renamed the mountain after Warboss Grimfang.  However, constant fighting with Dwarfs (and among themselves) led to a high turnover rate on Warbosses.  Each new Warboss renames themselves Grimfang, so that they are seen as the rightful ruler of Mount Grimfang.  Orks can only count to five, so each Warboss after the fifth is Grimfang da Lotz.

However, with the introduction of Blood Bowl, there’s just no fighting anymore.  At least, not enough to satisfy the current Grimfang da Lotz.  So, he has led his ladz out of the mountains, and onto the Blood Bowl pitch.  Calling themselves the Grimfang Scrappaz, they are ready to smash any team in their way!

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Warboss Grimfang da Lotz is a Games Day exclusive Warboss, in pewter.  I added a putty baseball cap, just like my other coach, Lord Kroak.  Grimfang’s colors are blue and silver, like the Scrappaz.  All jewelry is painted Mithril Silver to represent the wealth of the Grimfang silver mine.

Next: Cheerleaders and Assistant Coaches!

Sculpting Tuorial: Goblin Cheerleader Pom-Pom

Sat down to do some work on some models that have been neglected for a while, and I thought I’d do a short modelling tutorial on how to create Cheerleader Pom-Poms.  To a lesser extent, this same technique works on straight hair.

You need:

• A model with a closed fist for the pom-pom (or a bald headed mini if you’re doing hair)
• 2 part epoxy putty (green stuff, kneadatite, brown stuff, etc.)
• Sculpting needle tool

Step 1

Mix enough putty to cover the hand/head generously.  Use your fingers to smooth it down to cover the fist. (don’t worry about fingerprints, you will remove them in a bit)

Step 2

Wet the surface of your putty (lick it if you’re lazy) and use your needle tool to make a small circular dent at the top center.

Step 3

Place the tip of the needle tool in the hole at the top and carefully drag it down the side all the way to create a trench.  Push the needle into the bottom of the trench to make it so that the trench has no rounded end.  (Refrain from making penis jokes if you can.  I couldn’t.)

Step 4

Repeat step 3 about 30 to 45 degrees away from your first trench.

Step 5

Starting from just below where the two trenches meet, make another small trench that does not go all the way to the bottom.  Make more trenches that are staggered in between these all the way to the bottom to fill the area with small trenches.

Step 6

Repeat steps 4-5 to fill the entire area.

Now you can sculpt Pom-Poms, and to a lesser extent hair!  Be sure to keep your putty workable area wet to prevent your sculpting tool from sticking.  Happy Sculpting!

Custom Tournament Display Board

Here’s the super secret project I’ve been working on:

As an optional part of the upcoming tournament, you can enter the painting competition.  One of the things that gives you extra points in the competition is a custom display board for your army.

Here’s a shot of the display board in use, before it was painted:

The Assault Marines in the front will be replaced with the new ones that I am working on now.  I’ll give you a pic when the Assault Marines are finished.  As a bonus, the surface is removable, so I can make another surface and re-use the board for a different list!

Here’s what I used to make it:

• 22×17″ wall-mountable corkboard
• 28″ rolled cork
• Steel carpet tacks (black)
• Games Workshop black primer
• 2 1/3 pots Goblin Green (now Warboss Green) Citadel paint
• Citadel PVA glue (for water-resistance, you can use Elmer’s glue if you don’t care)
• Games Workshop flock
• Testors Dullcote Varnish
• Painter’s tape
• X-acto knife
• Water based ink pen (that can wash off of a sealed miniature easily, I used a V5 ballpoint in red)

Here’s how I did it:

1. Measure the interior board part of the corkboard and cut a piece of the rolled cork to fit.
2. Spray the rolled cork with water on both sides and weigh it down with heavy books protected by plastic bags.  After a day, flip the cork over and do this again until the cork is flat.
3. Place all of the minis that you want to display on the cork, arranged the way you want them, and trace them with a water based ink pen (that can wash off if you accidentally get it on your minis).
4. Use an X-acto knife to CAREFULLY cut out the spaces where your minis will go.  Take breaks often, and do it on a table.  I did it on the floor and it tired out my arm from the weird angle that I was working at.
5. Coat the edge of the corkboard with painter’s tape.  Note: mine was a cheap corkboard and some of the finish came off.  If you want to do this, I suggest a corkboard with a METAL frame.
6. Use some scraps from the cork to hold some carpet tacks (I used 8, you can use however many you want)
7. Spray the corkboard and cork piece and tacks with primer.
8. Spray the corkboard with Dullcote varnish when it is dry.
9. Paint the corkboard and tacks.  (I used Goblin/Warboss green, you should use whatever matches your base.)
10. Mix 50/50 PVA glue and water, apply it to the board and tacks and apply the flock. (use whatever basing method matches your army, obviously)  Drybrush the flock if you need to, after it dries for several hours.
11. Varnish the cork and tacks.
12. Put the cork on the board and secure it with tacks.  Your display board is now complete!

Next: Assault Marines and a TOURNAMENT!  Stay tuned!

A Modest Cephalopod Proposal – Reaper Bones Unleash the Kraken!

For more than two years, I have been incredibly lucky.  The most wonderful woman I have ever met has somehow come to love me as much as I love her.  We both agreed that we’re going to get married at SOME point, but we’ve been distracted by the usual suspects.  Poverty, illness, painting models, Lou Gossett, Jr., etc.

A bit more than a year ago, Reaper Miniatures began their second Bones Kickstarter, and like a sucker, I threw a small fortune at them.  You know how it is.  One of the add-ons offered was called “Unleash the Kraken!”

It was perfect.  The love of my life has a POWERFUL ken for cephalopods.  I ordered it and waited… a lot.  Thanks China.  But it arrived and I have been dutifully painting it.

Behold.

This masterpiece serves two purposes: a belated xmas present, and an official declaration to the world of my intent to marry her.  She loved it.

Love is wonderful, but it’s not what this blog is about.  Being the first Reaper Bones mini I’ve actually BOTHERED to paint, I’d be remiss without a thorough review of this product, and a complete breakdown of all the steps that led to this final, precious artifact.

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The Reaper Bones Miniature:

Beautifully sculpted, I followed the instructions on the Reaper Bones Preparation Guide.  I washed the squid gently in soapy water, and dried each piece.  The Beak, mouth/head, tentacles, body, ship, and mast holding up the squid are all seperate parts.  Each part was carefully cleaned with a diamond file.  The bottom of the body had some Reaper branding words that took a lot of elbow grease to scrape off.

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Modeling:

I did a pre-assembly of some parts.  The support mast was glued to the ship using super glue.  Gaps between the ship and mast needed a bit of green stuff, which I modeled into barnacles to cover it up.  I painstakingly arranged the tentacles about the mouth/head, and used more green stuff to join them more perfectly.  It was joined later, after some parts were painted.

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Painting:

As per the Reaper instructions, I (for the first time) used no primer.  At first.  The green stuff demanded primer, so I used a Reaper black paint on primer.  As for the rest, the paint did stick… mostly.  I found that 95% of the surface area of the model held paint with one coat.  Some very small areas refused a second but paid heed to a third.  Paint took an INCREDIBLE amount of friction to remove with rubbing, just as good as if it had been primered.

The ship was my first test to see how the paint stood up.  I started by coating the entire ship with black.  I then heavily drybrushed it (almost a wet brush) with Fortress Gray.  I inked then entire ship with Army Painter black ink wash, and then hit the whole ship with another lighter drybrush of Fortress Gray.  I then built up color with a drybrush of Snakebite Leather.  The next layer was Snot Green, but only in places that face “up” where sunlight could reach algae.  Ropes were given a much thicker coat, as algae would gain a stronger foothold in a softer surface.  The eagle bowsprit was given a very light drybrush of Vallejo brand gold, to simulate fading gilt.  Barnacles were picked out with Fortress gray, and washed to darken the insides.  The shelf corals were hit with a custom blend of paints to make them a salmon/coral pink.

Next, I tackled the body.  Colossal Squids tend to be orange, so I built up from Mechrite Red, to Blood Red, Firey Orange, and Blazing Orange.  The belly was Bleached Bone washed with 50% Citadel Chestnut Ink and 50% water with one drop of dish soap (saved from at least a decade ago!).  It was then drybrushed Bleached Bone and then lighter with White.  Armor plates were Shadow Gray drybrushed Space Wolves Gray.

The head came next.  The interior of the mouth was similar to the body.  Teeth were black with a slight highlight of Shadow Gray.  Face was similar to the upper body.  The eyes were a challenge.  I started black, and when I added white I left a circle of black around the edges for contrast.  Vallejo brand teal for the eyes, and a mix of various paints to create a different teal for some eye freckles.  I then did a circle of black for the pupil.

Tentacles were built up similar to the upper body, and spines are black with Shadow Gray.

The interior of the beak was bleached bone, with a small painted on orifice inside.  Exterior is black with Shadow Gray highlights.

Finally, the Squid was assembled, touched up, and sealed with Testors matte varnish.

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The final verdict: Thanks to Reaper’s master sculptors and the skills I have honed over 14 years, this is my finest work.  There can be no better proposal, at least not with my skills.

…and by the way, she said yes!

On my plate 9/26/14: Distracted Edition

Things are not going great, but it’s high time for me to stop letting life get in the way and do some hardcore hobby action!  All three of my readers demand it!  Well, truth be told, they’ve been a bit silent, but I can feel it in their hearts.  My hobby bones are rumbling.

Bones rumble, don’t they?

Battlefleet Gothic Tau – As my Tau player dropped out during our campaign I sort of lost interest in painting this fleet.  However it’s about 1/3 done and I want to finish it so it should be my primary goal.  Other projects should jump in.  Status: 3 more capital ships, a large selection of escorts, and some defences left to do.  I also have to pick a scheme for the Nicassar.  Perhaps earth tones?  Or go super extravagant with gold?

Azure Flames – I need to finish my Grav Sternguard.  Next, a 5 man non-jump-pack assault squad with 2 flamers.  Finally, I need to make some new sergeants with power swords.  I have been getting MURDERED in challenges with Power Fists.  I also need Centurions, a Hunter/Stalker, and a Stormraven.

Orks – MORE LADZ!  I also need to buy some Fighta-bommaz and perhaps some new Big Gunz.

Battlefleet Gothic Eldar – I purchased a pre-painted Eldar fleet, but it had no light cruisers.  I won one of each light cruiser in an auction and I need to strip them and try to match the paint scheme of my new fleet.

Battlefleet Gothic Necrons – I need a paint scheme and I need to get painting.  They are the last thing for Gothic.  Until I buy a new fleet NO BAD BOZEMAN!

Blood Bowl Orcs – I need to make four Cheerleader goblins, and then paint them as well as my four Assistant Coach goblins and the team coach, Warboss Grimfang da Lotz.

Epic Orks – Gotta finish that 3000pt teaching list.

Epic Eldar – Gotta make a 3000 pt teaching list and build it and paint it as the Yme-Loc craftworld (gray and orange with white details)

Epic Lost and the Damned – 3000pt teaching list and paint it.

Necromunda – Paint my Escher gang, Razor and the Scumettes.

Epic Space Marines – Finish painting a whole chapter so I can say “I have painted a whole chapter of Space Marines.”

Space Hulk – Wait for an ebay auction for the new mission book and rulebook, and the new tiles.  Also “acquire” the expansions. *looks innocent*

Nicassar Dhows, Caravan, and Rig

In my Battlefleet Gothic campaign, I got a new player hooked by letting him use my Tau Kor’or’vesh fleet.  You don’t see it in the Image Gallery for Gothic because it’s not painted yet.  The collection is small; a battleship, six crusiers, and assorted escorts.  It’s just under 2000 points, which is the size you’d need for a roster in a campaign.  I also had four Nicassar Dhows and a Tau Orbital unbuilt.

Thank goodness for the 2012 update.  It included the option for the Nicassar Caravan, which is an orbital rig with four Dhows to tow it around.  Even better: during a campaign you can choose for the Caravan to either be the Caravan OR four Dhows and an immobile unarmed defense.  With these options, the Tau fleet comes in at 1990 points, perfect to start a campaign!

…it just took me until now to complete them.  The Dhows are magnetized to remove them from their flying bases if necessary.  The core bits of the Tau orbital were used, and I bits ordered four of the Tau battlesuit sensors.  I modified them into the docking pylons for the Rig.  With the four Dhows, the Rig becomes the Caravan.

Next: look for more Gothic and hopefully my first forays into 7th ed 40K!

Pour out a 40 for pewter: The Great Smelting

If you hadn’t heard, here’s the latest scoop.  Games Workshop is shipping all of their pewter miniatures off to be smelted.  The price of pewter is pretty high, and they need revenue.  You know what else would have gotten revenue?  LETTING US TAKE A CRACK AT IT!  Seriously!  I’d have paid double the price you’d have gotten for scrap PLUS SHIPPING!

So many soldiers, lost before their time.  The Emperor is weeping.

Well, not for the daemons, but look no one’s having a good day in the 40K universe today.

Edit: There are still metal minis on the site, so it looks like they didn’t melt them all.  Still, pewter was a great medium for models.  I have 50 pewter Terminators and various other pewter marines, orks, guardsmen, and in a non-gw related note, all-pewter Cygnar.  I’ll miss pewter.

Fully Magnetized Stormtalon

I AM OZYMANDIAS, KING OF KINGS!  LOOK UPON MY WORKS, YE MIGHTY, AND DESPAIR!

These are the parts for the guns of my new Stormtalon Gunship.  Magnetized.  Fully Modular.  Behold the madness below.

To the left, the exterior casing meant for the Lascannon and Heavy Bolter.  To the right, the interior casing, which will be permanently glued to the side of the Stormtalon.  The magnets make them fit together.

Above, the fully assembled Gun weapon pod, held together with magnets.  Below, see a different shot of the Gun pod exterior, with a magnet puttied to be behind the hole where the Lascannon or Heavy Bolter can go.

Above, magnets were added to the Lascannon and Heavy Bolter Bitz.  Below, see that the magnets are strong enough to hold the gun pod aloft BY THE LASCANNON.  This won’t work when attached to the final ship, obviously, but it will keep the gun in place during a game.

Above, the interior of the gun pod again, with back views on the Lascannon and Heavy Bolter ammo feeds.  Below, the magnet inside the pod is strong enough to hold the feeds on securely.

Above, the pod interior with the Missile exterior attached.  The missile exterior has two large magnets which join to smaller magnets in each of the missile pod types.  Below, each type of missile pod, held together by magnets.

FINALLY, a masterpiece of magnetic engineering:

Above, the flying stand, with a high-gauss magnet (stronger than normal rare earth magnets) and the interior of the Stormtalon with two very large magnets.  Below, see that the flying stand is held aloft securely, making in-game movement a breeze.

I initially tried four smaller magnets in the flying stand, but if did not hold at all.  The magnets were competing.  This explains the damage to the top of the flying base, which will be hidden during a game.

Next: Painting the Stormtalon and then Combi-Grav Sternguard!  The Updatening for 6th ed continues!

On My Plate: 1/5/14

I have so many projects that I’m working on that I can’t really decide which to do, so hopefully laying them all out will let e get perspective.

-Battlefleet Gothic Necrons: Must come up with a paint scheme and paint.  I’m thinking Gold with green power pathways that have “pulses” of energy in a lighter green.

-Battlefleet Gothic Tau Kor’Or’Vesh: Another scheme and paint.  Perhaps Farsight Enclave?  Maroon and grey look good together.

-Azure Flames Grav Project: I have four tactical marines and two magnetic biker arms to complete.  After that, ten Sternguard veterans with Combi-Gravs.  Yes, ten.  Suck it superheavies and giant monstrous creatures.

-Blood Bowl: The Grimfang Scrappaz coach is partially done, as are assistant coaches.  I need to do a few cheerleaders and then paint them all.  I also need to do an Apothecary and Bloodweiser Babes…

-Epic: Finish painting Azure Flames, finish painting Ork 3000 point teaching list, finish Lost and the Damned Chaos Altar conversions, build and paint Eldar, and find two of the new version of the Revenant Titan for the Eldar.  Last ones on ebay went for $150 for the pair.

-Necromunda: Hired Guns are a priority if there’s going to be a campaign at AFK, and I also have Razor and the Scumettes to paint…

-Saratogan 58th: Still need a viable 1500 point list and/or allied detachment to take with the Azure Flames.  Note sure what I want.

-WAAAAGH! Smartyskull: Still need to paint half the stuff and find ways to improve the case situation, some stuff is getting dinged.

-Fantasy and Warmachine: On hold

Based on the above, I think I’m going to work on the Flames.  They are my main army, and grav weapons are FUN.